Nozawa Onsen ski holiday with children. We just spent 3 months in Nozawa Onsen with our two-year-old; here is our review.

The good:

1. The village - Nozawa Onsen is a compact village that is easy to navigate on foot, our 2 year old loved walking on the heated streets and making snowballs along the way, a sensory overload. Usually a’ walk’ involved a lot of carrying, but not in Nozawa Onsen.

2. Yumin Daycare - Yumin gave us an opportunity to ski while our son was in a safe centre with qualified staff (also exposure to Japanese language through other kids and teachers). Even now, 4 months later he asked “Can we go to Yumin”, which I think is a good sign. It is worth noting that we were required to pick up our son between 12-1pm for lunch. The staff have a break at this time. Yumin is located at the ski resort so it’s easy to access (Hikage ski centre).

3. Fun transport options - Gondolas, snowmobiles, magic carpets (escalators). Our son had a blast.

4. Eating - We used the guest kitchen at Nozawa Peaks to cook healthy breakfasts and other meals every day. When eating out at night, rice and soba dishes were two easy options always available. Soy sauce has become a staple for our son since we were in Japan. Lunch is very easy up on the ski resort area. From waffles to fried chicken to hot chocolates. We were lucky to have access to the guest kitchen for healthy meals so we did not feel as bad when he ate simple/not so healthy food when out and about.

5. Making friends - Nozawa Onsen is very popular for families. We made friends throughout our stay. Many families stay in Nozawa Onsen for a week or more. Because Nozawa Onsen is a compact village, it’s easy and common to meet the same families in the same situation with kids. The locals are also friendly which helps a lot. 

6. English speaking ski school - Our two year old was too young to ski this year, however next year we will use the ski school which is great.

7. Kids park - A huge area out in the snow for kids to play, including bouncy castle and inflatable slide, sled area and snow bikes to rent. Two magic carpet escalators to access the beginner ski area and also the sled slope. This area is free to use. 

8. Tatami - Woven staw flooring throughout our accommodation at Nozawa Peaks, basically it's a big playground. 

8. SPArena onsen - This place is amazing with kids. The onsen is not too hot and has a nice shallow kids area, there are showers, hair dryers, lockers, all amenities that the local onsen do not have. Even the restaurant has really good variety and you never need to worry about having a reservation. It has to be the best, easy way to have a fun afternoon with family in Nozawa Onsen. 

 

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The bad:

Honestly, we had to think hard about what was bad for kids in Nozawa Onsen.

1. Hazards - We had to keep a constant eye on our son near the sides of the road as there are hidden and not so hidden drop-offs and water features which are usually not fenced off. Locals push snow into these ponds/streams which is why there are no fences. The village streets are skinny so when cars come you need to find a spot to stand to allow them to pass. You can’t just let your young kids wander in Nozawa Onsen.

2. Transport to the daycare and ski school - I will be specific and say there was often a frustrating line and wait to take the snow mobile transport which runs between the Nagasaka gondola and the Hikage gondola (access to Nozawa Onsen ski school and Yumin day care). It is a fantastic free service, but in peak times there can be a long line. The alternative is to take the Yu-road escalator from the village to the Hikage area, or to get to the snowmobile early to avoid the congestion (before 9am).

3. Restaurants are booked out - We fell in the trap of eating out at 6-6.30pm where often restaurants were full. Quick solution for us was to be there when the restaurant open, often 5.30pm. First in, first out with a happy child.

If you are thinking of bringing a stroller, the heated streets do a good job of melting snow and the streets are in good shape. If you happen to be in Nozawa Onsen during one of it's big snowfalls you may not be able to use the stroller as the heated streets can't always keep up (sometimes Nozawa gets 1m of snow in 24 hours). 

For now this is our list, we may add to add it if we can think of more points to make. Overall I can positively say that we look forward to returning to Nozawa Onsen next winter with out son who will be 3 years old and can hopefully jump on skis. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Nozawa Onsen for families.